A Million Shades of Turquoise - Los Roques, Venezuela

Fly Water Travel is now booking Los Roques, Venezuela for the 2026 season and beyond.

Flocks of Laughing Gulls had adapted to make a living off the pelicans’ efforts by literally standing on their heads, flapping their wings wildly and shrieking in hopes they might release a portion of their catch. It seemed that all of the bay’s creatures had learned that the pelicans were the cash cow and that their relentless kamikaze attacks on the plentiful baitfish meant extra sardina scraps were available for all.

As our guide Carlos and captain Vicente readied the boat for departure, I hopped up on the stern of the boat and peered out at the sardina slaughter. With the elevated viewpoint I quickly noticed that in all directions large bonefish were suspended and cruising around like miniature sharks. Occasionally, sparkling flecks of scales from unlucky sardinas fluttered in the waves as sporadic flashes from the sides of feeding bonefish reflected brilliantly in the clear blue water.

As pelicans continued to rain down on the masses of terrified sardinas, it became clear that lurking bonefish were rushing to each concussive dive site and slurping up hordes of wounded minnows near the surface. Like heat-seeking missiles, the fish abruptly changed course to rally at each nearby pelican crash. After several near eats of my small sardina imitation, a pelican landed in a heap just 30 feet from the boat. Carlos yelled, “Cast at the pelican, cast at the pelican!” My fly landed just short of the bird as he raised his head to swallow his catch. Just as I noticed multiple large dorsal fins surrounding the pelican, my line went tight and my first Los Roques bonefish tore off into my backing! From the back of the boat, before we had even fired up the motor, I landed three bonefish up to 6 pounds and cast to two large cruising tarpon. All I could think was, “Welcome to Los Roques!”

Los Roques sits just off the coast of Venezuela about 80 miles north of the mainland. This archipelago, at the terminus of the Lesser Antilles, is comprised of several large atolls including the island of Gran Roque. The island is surrounded by hundreds of small flats known as “pancakes.” Soft white sand beaches, coral cays, extensive reef structures, and expansive mangrove lagoons abound within the 260-square-mile region. The small central village of Los Roques is the largest habitation in the island group. The town embodies all of the charm, beauty, and warmth of an equatorial getaway, rich with friendly faces, beachside cantinas, and laid-back rustic appeal.

Our first day was mostly spent fishing out of the boat for a myriad of Los Roques’ alternative species. We had numerous encounters with marauding blue runners crashing schools of sardinas, big needlefish nearly 4 feet long, bonito, horse-eye jacks, and sierra mackerel. It was immediately obvious that the chain of life was in full swing and that a multitude of sport fish were fully activated. Everywhere we ventured, including at the beach in front of town, it seemed that the whole system was alive and switched into overdrive. Schools of bonito and blue runners were smashing baitfish and whipping the surface into a white torrent while multiple bird species rained in from above. Several times we gently slid the boat up to a frothing mass of bonito and laid casts across a saltwater rapid of charging fish. Within seconds we found ourselves standing slack-jawed as more than 100 yards of backing peeled off our reels.

That evening we returned from fishing, cleaned up, and walked the sandy streets of the village before dinner. We enjoyed beachside Caipirinhas and watched as a deep orange sun slid into a perfect turquoise sea. As the ever-present equatorial trade winds eased and a scarlet Los Roques sunset peaked, we ambled back to the lovely Acuarela for dinner. Fresh seafood, ceviche, empanadas, carpaccio, pasta, and salad are all executed with a tasteful blend of Venezuelan and Italian flair. A chilled bottle of white wine, the buzz of a busy kitchen staff, and the conversing hotel guests set amidst a slew of dancing candles made for an enchanting evening.

Our next several days on the water were focused on the pancake flats. These small flat systems dot the topography of Los Roques and range in size from a few hundred feet to a mile around. At times schools of 200+ fish could be seen and casts needed only to land gently in the mere vicinity of the school to generate a strike. Sometimes even after spooking an entire school with an errant cast, there were so many fish zipping around that inevitably one would pick up the fly. At other times we found ourselves casting at singles, doubles, and small gangs that were cruising for crustaceans and baitfish. Often fish found singly or in pairs were a bit larger, and on one flat we walked for the better part of three hours, picking off bonefish left and right up to six pounds.

When you close your eyes and dream of powder-soft white-sand beaches, piercing electric blue skies, and a seascape colored in a million shades of turquoise, you are envisioning the beach fisheries of Los Roques. Throw in schools of bulky, baitfish-fed bonefish stalking prey in the shallows and the image is complete. The beaches may be one of the most fun and unique aspects of the trip. Bonefish found on the beach are after one thing: other fish! Beach fish move quickly as they cruise around looking for injured minnows. Most of the time Carlos and I would walk the shallows and I’d lay out casts 15 to 20 feet in front of the fish. Carlos would watch the minnow imitation slowly sink and at just the right moment I would quickly strip the fly. On several occasions Carlos and I enticed fish off the bottom in six or more feet of water to chase down a waking surface fly.

As our time in Venezuela progressed we settled into a comfortable routine of fishing the pancakes in the morning followed by lunch and beach fishing in the afternoon. Midday snorkel breaks were a fantastic way to take a break from fishing and cool off. The crystal-clear water yielded an endless array of coral beds adjacent to prime fishing grounds. We had the opportunity to get up close and personal with pompano, yellowtail snapper, barracuda, cowfish, and an incomprehensible number of reef fish species. During one session we were amazed to find ourselves squarely in the middle of a large school of bonefish. It was incredible to find them totally at ease with our presence only a few feet away.

The combination of fantastic fishing, incredible beaches, stunning scenery, and the tropical charm of Posada Acuarela makes it easy to understand why so many ardent saltwater anglers fall madly in love with Los Roques. If you’re looking for firm flats, heavily shouldered bonefish, boutique accommodations, and activities to delight non-fishing companions, then set your sights squarely on Los Roques. A tropical paradise in a million shades of turquoise with just as many bonefish awaits you.