Part 4: Bahamas on the Run - Abaco & The Marls

Part 1: Bahamas on the Run - Mangrove Cay Lodge

Part 2: Bahamas on the Run - Andros South Lodge

Part 3: Bahamas on the Run - Bonefishing on Mars

After a couple of weeks bouncing around South Andros Island, I finally made it to my last stop: Abaco Lodge. I'll be honest, I arrived with pretty high expectations. I'd heard countless stories about how incredible the lodge was, not just for the fishing, but for the entire experience. After spending a few days on the ground, I can confidently say every expectation I had was exceeded.

As a Nervous Waters property, Abaco Lodge is nothing short of spectacular. While there is certainly a heavy emphasis on great fishing, the staff puts just as much effort into creating an exceptional guest experience. It's the same level of hospitality you'll find throughout the Nervous Waters portfolio, and it's easy to see why they're considered one of the premier lodge operators in the world.

I was impressed from the moment I arrived. Welcome drink in hand, lodge managers Henk and Janine greeted me at the gate with big smiles and made me immediately feel at home. Wooden walkways stretched across the property, connecting the main lodge, cabins, pool, and dock, all with beautiful views overlooking the bay. I could already picture myself ending each day with a cold Kalik around the fire pit. After a quick tour of the property and a rundown of what the next few days would look like, I settled into my room and started getting excited for what was ahead.

The accommodations strike a perfect balance between classic Bahamian charm and luxury. Every room features two queen beds, a private bathroom, and sliding glass doors that open directly toward the water and onto your private deck. On my second evening, I was treated to one of the most spectacular sunsets I've ever seen. The entire sky lit up in shades of orange and pink as far as the eye could see.

After getting settled, it was time for my first meal at the lodge. I can't overstate how impressive the kitchen staff are. Every meal is thoughtfully prepared using fresh, local ingredients, and every plate looked like a piece of art. From breakfast through dinner and every snack in between, I found myself looking forward to the food almost as much as fishing. By the time I left, I was convinced it was the best food I'd had at any destination fishing lodge.

Now, onto the fishing.

Coming into Abaco, I expected the bonefish to average a bit smaller than those on Andros, as many consider Andros the Bonefish Capital of the World. Instead, I found fish that were every bit as impressive as their southern neighbors. They were strong, aggressive, and more than willing to eat a well-presented fly.

I spent three days fishing around Abaco, much of that time exploring the famous Marls, one of the most unique bonefish habitats anywhere in the Bahamas. Marl is a light-colored bottom made up of sand, mud, and fine sediment. Unlike the hard, white sand flats found throughout much of the Bahamas, this soft-bottom environment is best explored from a skiff. Picture the Marls as one enormous cafeteria: hundreds of miles of mangrove-lined creeks, shallow bays, and winding flats absolutely loaded with shrimp, crabs, and hungry bonefish.

Day 1

First day on the water, and I was fired up to finally see the Marls. I fished with Kirk while Henk joined us for the day, making for a pretty rowdy crew. The goal was simple: cover as much water as possible and see a variety of different habitat.

We were greeted with absolutely gorgeous weather. Glassy calm conditions and barely a hint of wind. As awesome as that sounds, it actually made the fishing pretty tough. The fish were incredibly spooky, but if you led them enough they would still track down a fly. On our final stop, with the last cast of the day, we connected with a beautiful fish before heading back to the lodge. A fantastic way to end day one.

Day 2

Paul has been guiding on Abaco for nearly 30 years, and his knowledge of the fishery is incredible. Any question I had about the island or the fishery, he had an answer. Instead of covering lots of water, we spent the day focusing on the far western edge of the Marls near the expansive bay separating Abaco from Grand Bahama. A light breeze put just enough ripple on the water to help us get closer to fish without spooking them.

The tide was exceptionally low, creating phenomenal opportunities for sight fishing to tailing bonefish. I saw more tailing fish that day than I ever have in a single day of bonefishing, and it's hard to describe just how incredible that was to witness. On the ride home, Paul casually asked if I wanted to spend some time looking for tarpon in a nearby bay....duh. We eased into a shallow mangrove-lined bay and spent about half an hour searching for rolling fish. They never showed themselves, but neither of us minded. We'd already had an outstanding day on the water.

Day 3

My final day at Abaco and the last day of fishing on my Bahamas tour. I spent the day with Abaco's head guide Trevor, who, like Kirk and Paul, was a wealth of knowledge. We made the longest run of the trip, heading farther south than I'd fished all week.

The morning started quickly as we poled into a shallow bay where bonefish wakes crisscrossed the mangrove edges. The fish were eager, and honestly, we could have stayed there all day. But there was still more of the Marls to explore. Throughout the day, I learned Trevor has a bit of an obsession with permit. Fortunately, Abaco is one of the few Bahamian islands where anglers have a legitimate opportunity to target them. We decided it was worth dedicating some time to the search, but the weather had other plans. Clouds rolled in, turning the water gray and making it nearly impossible to spot fish. We eventually called it, but not before enjoying another fantastic day on the water.

And just like that, it was over. Four lodges. Countless flights. Seventeen unforgettable days.

Along the way I experienced some of the finest bonefish lodges anywhere in the world, shared skiffs with incredible guides, and met some truly wonderful people. It's a trip I'll remember for a very long time.

There really is nowhere quite like the Bahamas. If you ever have the chance to experience these islands for yourself, I couldn't recommend it more.