XFLATS Uncovered - Destination Report by Taylor Goodhue

Xcalak is a small town of around 400 people, located practically on the border of Mexico and Belize. We’d been hearing about this place for the past few years—particularly how the permit down there love to eat floating crabs. So, we gathered our crew, hopped on a plane, and drove a few hours to The XFlats Lodge. We spent a week chasing bonefish, tarpon, and what many consider one of the best permit fisheries in the world. Needless to say, we got into some fish and came home with some incredible stories. 

Getting There
Traveling to The XFlats is fairly straightforward. We opted to fly into Tulum, which is closer to the lodge than Cancún and more affordable than Chetumal. Multiple airlines now offer daily direct flights to Tulum. The brand-new airport made for a fast and easy arrival. Our driver was waiting just outside baggage claim for the 3.5-hour transfer to the lodge. The van was clean, comfortable, air-conditioned, and the drive was smooth. 

The Lodge
The XFlats is located right on the beach in Xcalak, just a few miles north of the Belizean border. On arrival, we were greeted and shown to our rooms by lodge owner Jesse, who’s not only incredibly nice but was always available to answer any questions. All of our rooms overlooked the ocean and the dock we departed from each morning. Each one included A/C, warm showers, daily housekeeping, and large jugs of drinking water. 

The lodge has a beachside setting with a wadeable flat right out front which we often found ourselves walking it after fishing. After a day on the water, we’d unwind with a siesta or swap fish stories over appetizers. Meals and drinks were served under a nearby palapa, and I can’t speak highly enough of the food. Every dish was thoughtfully prepared, blending Mexican and Caribbean flavors. The staff were kind, attentive, and made the experience truly memorable. We’re already looking forward to returning. 

Where Did You Fish?
At The XFlats, the primary focus is permit, but there’s great diversity with tarpon, bonefish, barracuda, jacks, and triggerfish all on the menu. 

The ocean-side flats between the Meso-American Reef and the mainland were our main permit grounds. These slightly deeper flats are covered in turtle grass or rocky outcroppings and also hold large barracuda. 

Chetumal Bay offered super shallow white sand flats—perfect for wading and sight fishing for permit and bonefish. 

The mangrove lagoons connected by narrow channels provided exciting fishing for bonefish and juvenile tarpon. These lagoons were either clear or lightly stained, and they offered calm, protected casting even on windy days. 

How Did You Fish? 

Permit
April – May brings thick mats of sargassum, which supports an abundance of life—most importantly, the Sargassum Swimming Crab. These floating crabs are a key food source for permit in this area. We sight-cast floating crab patterns to permit cruising around sargassum patches. Watching permit eat a floating crab off the surface was some of the most thrilling sight-fishing I’ve ever done. 

Effective flies included the EP Floating Crab, Cathy’s Fleeing Crab, Raghead Crab, and Sargasso Crab. One guide, Tommy, sells his own floating crab patterns, and I highly recommend picking up a few. A 9wt rod with a solid sealed-drag reel was ideal for these fish. 

Tarpon
We found tarpon both among the sargassum and tucked in the mangrove lagoons. The ocean fish ranged from 30–70 pounds but were tricky to reach when you were rigged for permit. The lagoon tarpon were smaller (10–25 pounds) but more accessible—and just as exciting. We used Tarpon Toads, Cockroaches, Tarpon Bunnies, and EP baitfish in colors like red/black, black/purple, and chartreuse. A 10wt rod with a strong reel was perfect for the job. 

Bonefish
We fished three main areas for bonefish: the mangrove lagoons, the ocean-side flats, and Chetumal Bay. In the lagoons, bonefish were typically less spooky and often cruised over shallow white sand, making for easier presentations. The ocean-side flats presented more of a challenge—the fish blended in well with the turtle grass, requiring sharp eyes and precise casts. Chetumal Bay, with its clear water and white sand bottom, offered the easiest wading and visibility, making it a favorite for sight fishing. 

Our go-to patterns for bonefish included Crazy Charlies, CXI Specials, Ververka’s Mantis Shrimp, and other small shrimp imitations in tan, gold, and pink. A 7- or 8-weight rod paired with a quality sealed-drag reel proved to be ideal for these fish. 

In addition to bonefish, we also targeted barracuda, jacks, and triggerfish, often encountering them while searching for permit. Triggerfish, which also feed on crabs and shrimp, were happy to take the same crab patterns we used for permit. Jacks—mostly Crevalle and Yellow—were aggressive and eager to eat nearly anything we threw at them, making for exciting hook-ups. For barracuda, we always kept a rod rigged with a large popper and a heavy wire leader. Fast, aggressive strips triggered explosive eats, and their blistering runs and acrobatic jumps quickly made them one of my favorite species to chase on the trip.

How Was the Fishing?
Fishing was excellent. As always, permit are notoriously difficult to catch, but we dedicated most of our time to them and were rewarded with a solid handful with many on floating crab patterns, which made for unforgettable eats. Tarpon fishing was fantastic in the lagoons and solid along the ocean-side sargassum. When we made the effort to focus on bonefish, we did extremely well. Since most anglers here are after permit, the bonefish don’t receive much pressure, making them far more willing to eat. We also caught numerous jacks and, to my surprise, barracuda quickly became one of my favorite species to target on the fly. 

Overview
Our group had an unforgettable experience at The XFlats. Travel logistics were smooth, the staff and guides were top-notch, and the food and drinks were worth the trip alone. The lodge’s location puts you on the flats within minutes of leaving the dock, and once you’re out there, the fishing speaks for itself. 

Huge thanks to Fly Water Travel for making the booking process seamless, we can’t wait to go back next year! 

By Taylor Goodhue
Confluence Fly Shop - Bend, OR
Taylor is an Oregon native, who started fly fishing at a very young age. He was taught on the famed Deschutes River, which he has now been guiding since 2020. Although he grew up a trout angler, Taylor developed a taste for saltwater and exotic fish species early on. He’s been fortunate enough to fish throughout Belize, Mexico, Brazil, all over the US, Christmas Island, and Baja.

You can get in touch with Taylor at www.confluenceflyshop.com