Destination Report 2024 - Salmon Hole Lodge

The Kennebec and Penobscot in Maine, once teeming with Atlantic salmon, now testaments to both the resilience of nature and the efforts to restore these vital ecosystems. Crossing into Canada, I wound my way through Nova Scotia, where the Margaree River, with its storied angling tradition, offered a glimpse of what once was and what could be again.

My ultimate destination was Salmon Hole Lodge on the La Poile River, a hidden gem in southern Newfoundland. The journey to this secluded spot is not an easy feat, but that is precisely what makes it so special. The trip began with an overnight in Deer Lake on Saturday. Unfortunately, we received news that night that the boat crossing to the river mouth was not possible due to a storm. So, the next morning, we met after breakfast and took a leisurely drive to Port aux Basques for another overnight. Despite this rare delay, we only lost a few hours of afternoon fishing. Monday morning, we set off early to Rose Blanche harbor for an hour and half boat ride. The going in the North Atlantic was slow as the seas were recouping from the recent storm. We arrived safely in North Bay, a small community for summer residences at the mouth of the La Poile River. The outfitter has a lower river lodge facility where we ate a quick lunch and then geared up for fishing.

Both Tyler, my fishing partner, and I were each rewarded with a hooked and lost fish in our first pool. Tyler again struck a fish in our second pool, but it also came unbuttoned quickly. We were off to a great start. The flies were small and barbless and keeping a hook in these fish proved difficult. The session ended with a short ride up to camp in one of the lodge’s side-by-side ATVs.

Salmon Hole Lodge is a quaint, comfortable little camp seemingly set back in time, overlooking a beautiful home pool. Despite the somewhat challenging travel, the tranquility and exclusivity of this remote river are worth the effort. We had the entire river to ourselves each day and never saw another angler. With Starlink keeping us connected, we enjoyed both solitude and modern conveniences.

I had an incredible fishing adventure on the La Polie River, which flows south into North Bay and the North Atlantic Ocean. This remote and pristine location on the south side of Newfoundland is a paradise for Atlantic Salmon, untouched by many of the negative influences found elsewhere. The only outfitter permitted on the river is Jeroen Wohe and his Salmon Hole Lodge, and let me tell you, they provide an amazing experience.

Jeroen is a fantastic host and guide, and he's supported by a wonderful local family. The father and son guide, entertain, and share fascinating stories about the local area and lodge history, while the mother creates a warm, welcoming atmosphere with delicious food and excellent service. One of the best things about this trip was the relaxed pace. There was no rush to get to the pools because there was no competition. This meant the fish were well-rested and more likely to bite. The fishing involved some walking and mostly wading. Although the wading wasn't easy due to the round, plentiful rocks, it was manageable with studded boots. There were also boat-assisted pools for those who preferred or requested them. While the river was too low for us to float, there are days when you can raft down several miles and ATV back up. I preferred to fish hard early and focus on the last couple of hours in the evening, but you could fish right through the day if you and your partner wanted.

I loved experimenting with various techniques to move the fish. The flies were small, sizes 8 to 12, and as the water dropped, both the flies and the tippet got even smaller. I hooked fish on dead-drifted dry flies, swung wet flies, riffle-hitched surface flies, and stripped dry flies. The river offered many different types of water and presentations, all within a few miles of camp.

I split my fishing days into morning and evening sessions. After breakfast at 7AM, we geared up and headed out for the morning. We usually focused on one great pool and a couple of secondary options. I fished the first pool multiple times with different flies or tactics, and it was thrilling to see how a change of fly or technique could make all the difference. As the days went on and the water conditions changed—dropping, clearing, and warming—we faced new challenges, but fish were moved every day by the five anglers at camp. We rotated guides and pools each day, allowing some to rest while others were fished at least once daily. With better water conditions, I can only imagine the endless fishing opportunities.

After dinner on day one, Jeroen wanted to show me a pool called the Bathtub. It was a slow deep pool with a tributary flowing in. The hike over rocks and along the riverbank was a bit spicy for me, a guy with three ACL reconstructions. The pool was slow and deep. A beautiful tributary dumped into the center. The casting position was on a large boulder above the water about 100 feet above the tributary. Jeroen explained the target was nearly straight across where a ledge three-quarters across the river created a seam. The foam on the other side being the target. The fish held in a 5x5 box, and each day new fish might take residence there. Standing on the rock, I made a double Spey cast to the foam with my La Polie bug. It didn’t take long to get my first dead-drifted dry fly salmon, and the next fish came soon after with a strip of the fly. I reeled up and left with two fish in about 15 minutes. Each day, this spot produced action for guests, making it a reliable and exciting part of the guide rotation. Overall, this trip was a fantastic blend of great fishing, beautiful scenery, and wonderful company.

I used a 7119-4 switch with a RIO Scandi head with mono running line and 15ft leader to 8 or 10lb. It was a perfect fit when the water was up and in perfect shape. There were several runs that swung especially well with this setup. I used A 790-4 often and a single hander with a floating line is mandatory equipment here. This was my go-to rig when the water dropped into low and clear conditions. I used the 7-weight RIO single hand Spey line and found it to offer great fun. Casting the dry fly at short distance suffered a bit but the overall efficiency for Spey casting is where the line seemed to shine. Overhead casts at distance are also a pleasure with the small size 8 to 12 flies we were presenting.

There are some local patterns worth getting on site. The La Poile bug is a cross between a wooly bugger and bomber. Tied with tan or grizzly hackle over deer hair with green up front and white behind to a white calf tail. Although I had never heard of it, it proved to be the most versatile fly without question. It was fished dead drifted, skated, stripped steadily and often moved quickly over the slick water pools. A traditional Blue Charm in sizes 8 -12 proved a favorite as well. Undertakers in 8 -12, tan and orange bombers in sizes 4 to 10. A riffle hitch tube fly also offered great fun. All these flies enticed fish to move to the fly during the trip.

The lodge at Salmon Hole hosts just six anglers each week, ensuring a quiet and personalized experience. Each guest had their own single room, which was clean and comfortable. My room had a twin foam bed, some hangers, shelves, and provided ample space to keep my gear organized.

The accommodation includes two duplex-style cabins for four guests each, each with a bathroom that has a flush toilet and shower. For those staying in the main cabin, there’s easy access to a separate flush toilet and shower building. The decks offered pleasant views of the home pool and surrounding valley.

The meals were a standout feature of the stay. Prepared by the wife and mother of the two guides (who both grew up in the area), the food was simple, but well prepared and delicious. The meals were served family-style, which created a warm, communal atmosphere. Breakfasts were hearty and satisfying, with eggs, pancakes, bacon, sausage, fruit, toast, and bagels. For lunch, there were hot dishes like soups and chili, complemented by fresh salads and sandwiches.

The dinners were truly satisfying. Each night, we enjoyed a variety of dishes, including homemade chicken soup, flavorful moose chili, succulent lobster, fresh cod, and BBQ steaks. Desserts were nice too—each one was delicious and a perfect end to the meal. The use of local ingredients really shone through in every dish, making each meal a memorable part of the experience.

Leaving a place like this always feels particularly significant. The combination of breathtaking scenery, the thrill of fishing in such a pristine environment, and the reassurance that the river and its salmon are being well-cared for truly makes every visit special. It’s about more than just fishing. It is the entire experience as a whole—the adventure and challenge of reaching a place untouched by humanity, the respect for the environment, and the camaraderie with fellow anglers who share the appreciation of remote wild places. The careful management and sustainable practices ensure that this unique environment remains vibrant and enjoyable. As I drove away, I carried with me a sense of gratitude and anticipation for future visits, knowing that this remarkable place will continue to be a haven for those who value its true essence. I look forward to returning and experiencing once again the magic of this remote sanctuary and contributing, in my own small way, to preserving its beauty and integrity.