Part 1: Max From the Trout Highway!

Max From the Trout Highway - Spotify Playlist: CLICK HERE

Fly fishing road trips are one of the great adventures in our sport. Wide-open spaces, truck stop burritos, fresh locations, new rivers, and the exhilaration and hope that great fishing is ahead are some of my favorite memories of my personal fly fishing journey. 

In this job I often travel internationally with a carefully curated and packed single-stowed bag (not exceeding 50-pounds) and a single carry-on for the flight. There is something refreshing about haphazardly throwing a bag of clothes, a fly rod or two, waders and boots, a few boxes of flies, a couple of leaders, spools of tippet, and a cooler full of road snacks into a car and driving away in true dirtbag trout bum style.

STOP 1: BIGHORN RIVER - THERMOPOLIS, WYOMING 

My trip started with a 5-hour drive across Wyoming through Casper to the small river town of Thermopolis. Sitting just below the Wind River Canyon and the “Wedding of the Waters” where the Wind River becomes the Bighorn, “Thermop” is best known for its system of natural hot springs. Once in Thermopolis I checked into the Best Western Plaza Hotel in Hot Springs State Park. After throwing my stuff down in my room I went to meet my guide for the next day, Matt Schliske, at the pseudo-famous Thermopolis Safari Club located across the street from the hotel.

No trip to Thermopolis is complete without a trip to the Safari Club. Matt is a bamboo rod builder and world class guide who has made several guiding stops around the country in his career. From redfish in the flood tides to high mountain trout, Matt has been around and decided to call the small town of Thermopolis, Wyoming home. I had the house specialty meatloaf and a few “chilly good guys” while Matt and I chatted about the next day. The forecast called for a windy afternoon, and Matt said that the play was to start early to try to be off the river before the upstream winds started.

Matt picked me up at 7:00am and we were first to the boat ramp and ready to go. The fishing was fantastic, with lots of rainbows and brown trout over 16 inches in the net. My favorite fish was late in the day near the takeout. Matt let me know that often the bigger brown trout will set up in very shallow water and ambush bugs and crustaceans as they float by. Matt tied on a crayfish pattern, and I cast in the shallow water near the bank stripping the fly back as we floated by. I had to keep the fly moving because the water was only a foot deep, but after a few casts and drifts the water exploded and we landed an impressive and beautiful 20-inch brown trout.  

We pulled the boat out at Hot Springs State Park below the Rainbow Terrace formed by the mineral hot springs. Matt and I shook hands, hugged it out, and I got back on the road.

STOP 2: The South Fork of the Snake River – South Fork Lodge, Idaho

From Thermopolis I drove a few hours to Dubois, Wyoming. After dinner at The Fluffy Cow inside the oldest bar in Dubois, I went to bed near the headwaters of the Wind River after a great day. The next morning, June 3rd, I awoke to fresh wet snow blanketing my car and the road. I only mention this because, from Dubois, the road to Jackson goes over Togowtee Pass. The drive was a bit sporty in spots, but only a half-hour behind schedule I pulled into Jackson, where I then turned west to drive over Teton Pass into Victor, Idaho, then up and over Pine Creek Pass, descending into the Swan Valley to the impeccable South Fork Lodge, all before 10am. 

South Fork Lodge was full, but the staff was able to show me around while the guests were out fishing. The lodge is one of the finest sporting lodges in the world. Every detail is thoughtful and clean (there is no dust on the light fixtures anywhere). From the lobby that smells like wood smoke, old books, and fine leather, to the comfortable guest rooms, to the well-stocked fly shop, the entire property is impressive. The staff there pride themselves on offering their guests a zero-concern, high-end experience from the moment they walk through the doors, and it shows. The lodge is owned and operated by RIO Ambassador Oliver White, and after my tour Oliver and I sat down in the Machete Bar to discuss his operation and his vision for the future. As we were nearing the end of our conversation Oliver looked over and said, “You should see this place full of guests. It is a great vibe. Why don’t you come for dinner tonight as my guest?” Now, I am not really the type to be star struck, but I do naturally get intimidated by the “fly fishing famous” people I meet along the way. After waffling about it for a while I decided to get past my own insecurities and accept. The simple truth is, when Oliver White invites you to dinner at South Fork Lodge, you go.  

He was right, the lodge had a different life full of guests, and the vibe was very welcoming and comfortable. Oliver and his staff were warm and generous, and it was fascinating to watch them work. The staff at South Fork Lodge put on a clinic in hospitality, no drink went unchecked, the fire never burned out, plates and glassware were cleared quickly, napkins were refreshed, all the things. Oliver and I had an amazing three-course dinner on the patio overlooking the South Fork of the Snake River. Anglers floated by while we talked about fly fishing, the business of fly fishing, and life in general. It was one of the most interesting and inspiring dinners I have ever been invited to.

STOPS 3 & 4: Henry’s Fork Lodge, Idaho and Madison River Lodge, Montana

I spent the night in Driggs, Idaho. A fantastic small town with great outdoor opportunities on the west side of the Tetons. From Driggs I drove to Island Park, Idaho and Nelson Ishiyama’s Henry’s Fork Lodge. Nelson was hosting officers and donors of Trout Unlimited at the lodge, but he was able to take some time and show me around the lodge that he built and has owned and operated for over 30 years. It is a beautiful lodge overlooking the Henry’s Fork, but I was excited to see the famous back porch. The porch sits high on a cliff, with a commanding view of the river below. The porch has hosted world leaders, artists, musicians, celebrities, and thousands of anglers over the years. It is a wonderful place to take in the surroundings and enjoy a coffee in the morning or a beverage after a fishing day.  

I was impressed with one small detail that Henry’s Fork Lodge does to make the destination a first-class experience. In the kitchen there is a bulletin board with photos of all the guests staying at the lodge with their names written under it. Every guest is addressed by their name by all the staff, one small detail that I think makes guests feel welcome and that they are now part of the larger history of the lodge. 

Nelson is passionate about the Henry’s Fork, and wanted to take me up for a quick look at a section called Railroad Ranch. I think he wanted to show me around and tell me the history of the place, but I also think he was wondering if there was anyone up there so he could come back to fish it later. The Railroad Ranch of the Henry’s Fork is one of the most hallowed pieces of water in fly fishing and attracts anglers from all over the world to test their skills. I do think that its notoriety for being a varsity level fishery has sort of overshadowed how great the Henry’s Fork is for anglers of all skill levels. There are plenty of sections on the river where beginning and intermediate anglers can find success. The Railroad Ranch is only about six miles of a spectacular river. I chatted with Nelson about his life and his feelings about the Henry’s Fork. He has fished the river for over 50 years, and it’s easy to see his deep love for the place. After getting back to the lodge we said our goodbyes, and I hit the road heading north.  

From Henry’s Fork Lodge I set out north to Highway 287 (The Trout Highway) and Madison River Lodge. The first thing you notice about Madison River Lodge is the location. The lodge sits in the middle of the famous Upper Madison “50 Mile Riffle” and the river literally bends around property. It is a fly angler’s dream. At the lodge I was greeted by lodge manager Jay Peery who took me for a quick tour while the guests were out fishing. The lodge is the classic Montana trout lodge with a welcoming western feel. The large decks overlooking the river, the onsite casting pond, and fantastic common areas complement the five guest rooms to give it a great group vibe. As I walked around, I was thinking to myself how much I would like to experience the lodge with my friends. We have had a few guests visit the lodge this season and everyone raves about what Jay and Executive Chef, RJ Conlin, are doing with the operation this season. One of our very well-traveled guests said that his visit to the Madison River Lodge this spring was one of the top trips of his life. This is certainly high praise. Jay has managed a few lodges and brings a great laid-back vibe blended with sweating-the-details. We chatted about the lodge and his role and what he thinks he can do to make this fantastic lodge even better. I am excited to see what he comes up with next.

CLICK HERE for Part 2 of Max from the Trout Highway