Skeena River Lodge - Destination Report 2024 by Ken Morrish

In full disclosure, my late August trip to Skeena River Lodge was on the last-minute end of the planning spectrum. I, like many, have a selfish streak, and as the Tyee Test Index kept building, pointing towards one of the strongest steelhead returns in many years, it became increasingly clear that I would not be able to live with myself, let alone take good care of our customers if I didn’t get a few days of BC steelhead fishing in. I quickly concocted a “business plan” for why I needed to do a site visit, and I was off. In hindsight, I have zero regrets as I connected and fished with some wonderful Fly Water guests, experienced a lodge that had truly come into its own as top-shelf operation, and caught some incredible fish along the way. I am still tingling a bit, as I experienced a quality of steelhead fishing that I hadn’t in over a decade, and feared I might never experience again.

How did I get there?
I flew to Seattle, then to Vancouver BC, cleared customs, and then checked into an Air Canda flight to Terrace. My old friend and SRL guide Mike VanWormer picked me up at the airport and drove me 25 minutes to the lodge. Easy-peasy.  

The Overall Experience
In short, it was great! I hadn’t been to the lodge since 2021, shortly after it had gone through some big and exciting changes. On this trip I got see the place hitting on all cylinders, with a seasoned passionate guide staff, an incredible chef and a warm welcoming lodge support staff. My late dear friend Lani Waller once told me that steelhead fishing could be generalized by the law of thirds: that meaning if you fished for six days, two would be slow, two would be good and two would be great. This trip was somewhat similar, except that my last day landed squarely in the epic category. I fished for five days: day one on the Copper, day two on the Skeena, day three on the upper Kalum, day four on the Skeena and day five on the Copper. For the four weeks prior to my visit, the Skeena had been absolutely on fire, and one group of guests my week went 6 for 11 one day, but the Skeena proved to be my slow days. Our Kalum day was pretty good despite pouring rain, and the Copper was fantastic overall. On my last day, fishing with a great customer Donaldo Puller, we hit the Copper perfectly. It was blown out the day before and at dawn when we put the raft in, it was absolutely perfect. We went 11 for 18 and lost two great specimens right at the net. They were all between 10 and 16 pounds, and breathtakingly bright and beautiful. Our guide J.P. was outstanding and at the day’s end we overwhelmed by our good fortune.

Who is this trip best for?
This trip is perfect for anglers that want to swing flies with two-handed rods for anadromous fish. They have a long season beginning with Spring steelhead in April. In June they transition to targeting kings, and in July they catch a variety of salmon and steelhead on the main Skeena. Come August they double down on steelhead fishing on the main Skeena and begin fishing the Copper and Kalum through mid-October.  This is a great lodge for experienced anglers as well as for those that want to learn about Spey fishing and casting. A bonus is that folks get single rooms and the food, is fantastic.  

Favorite Moments
There so many great moments but there were a few stand outs. One was on the main Skeena with my buddy Mark Ostrom. He and master guide Jack Yoo somehow managed to wade out into the very middle of the Skeena. They were more than 100 yards from either bank, and they were fishing a subtle piece of water that I would have never been able to identify, let alone try and wade to. From where I stood, it just looked like a big boring flat, but then they were hooked up! I trudged out there to take to join in the fun and take some pictures. To see the joy on their faces as they netted and released this beautiful hen fish in the absolute middle of this enormous river was something I will never forget. Another bit of magic was the morning of my last day. We had tied up a prime beat on the Copper and Donaldo and I were on a long, immaculate run with lots of water between us. We each landed a fish in short order and neither of us had even gotten to the best part of our given sections. We could tell there were more fish to come, and then the sun started rising between the peaks to our east and illuminating several low hanging fog banks. Then Donaldo hooked up again, and then I did as well. The beauty and promise of the day was almost too much and it continued all the wat to the take out. Last but not least, was a dinner of miso braised black cod. It was so tender, subtle and refined: true perfection on a plate.