Who is best suited to this destination?
Christmas Island (and the republic of Kiribati) is very much a developing nation. For the fishing outfitters and inhabitants, obtaining basic food items, supplies, water, equipment, and tools is still a massive challenge. The motto for any guest traveling to Christmas Island should be “go with the flow”. You may encounter a cockroach or hermit crab in your room. You will spend six days eating basic white-bread sandwiches for lunch. Something during the week will break (rods, reels, air conditioners, etc). But, your guides, and hosts will be doing their best to make life as easy and comfortable as possible. If you appreciate the spirit of true adventure, the skill and kindness of some of the most talented flats guides on the planet, and the faraway beauty of a prolific saltwater environment, a finer place is hard to find.
Where is the lodge?
The atoll is located just north of the equator, approximately 1,200 miles south of Hawaii. On the atoll, the lodge sits just outside of London, faces due west, and is set just feet from the lapping waves of the Pacific Ocean. Spectacular sunsets are a regular occurrence and breezes are almost constant.
How do I get there?
Guests fly to Cassidy International Airport (CXI) from Honolulu, are picked up at door of the airport and taken in pickup trucks approximately 30 minutes to the lodge.
When should I go?
Christmas Island is located around 120 miles north of the equator. Being so close to the equator, the weather is one of the most consistent, of any place on earth, even through the winter months. The daytime high and nighttime low, is unlikely to vary by more 10 degrees for months at a time. During a recent trip, the high and low temperatures varied from a low of 79 degrees to a high of 81 degrees, for three consecutive days. It is never ‘hot’ and never ‘cold’, just consistently ‘warm’. We always tell people that they should “go to Christmas Island, when they don’t want to be at home.”
Moon phase plays a bigger role in how the week sets up than any other factor. Neap tides around quarter moons are ideal for bonefish on the flats. Full and new moons generate bigger tidal swings, which favor giant trevally and blue water fishing. Weeks with a full or new moon near the start or end can offer both. These are guidelines, not guarantees — the fish have not read this and often don’t play by our rules.
How will I fish?
Typically, anglers fish two per guide. All flats fishing is done on foot, wading hard sand and coral in shallow, clear water. The team uses both outrigger boats and trucks to access a range of locations. From the main lagoon to the ocean-side flats at "The Wreck" and the remote backcountry, which holds some of the island's best trophy bonefish and golden trevally. Truck access allows anglers to spend a full day deep in the backcountry, where boat access is limited by tides. Blue water fishing is done by boat and can be arranged for a half-day without additional charge on most trips.
Is there wade fishing?
All fishing is done while wading. The expansive and numerous flats are world famous for their firm and relatively easy bottom. If you can walk a mile on a flat hiking trail, you will be able to fish Christmas Island. Anglers capable of walking longer distances will do even better, but marathon levels of fitness are hardly necessary.
Where will I fish?
The main lagoon is a vast network of flats and channels with virtually unlimited wade-able water. Ocean-side flats and the backcountry are accessed by truck. Blue water fishing typically takes place off the island's southern coast, one to two miles offshore. Most of the fishing is done on the numerous flats of the inner lagoon. Christmas Island is the largest coral atoll in the world and there are more flats in the lagoon that you can cover in a full week. Add the famous Korean wreck (or bay of wrecks) area along with the limited access backcountry preserve and you will not often fish the same flat in the course of the week.
How long does it take to reach the fishing grounds?
Lagoon runs take 10 to 50 minutes depending on tides. Truck-based days to the backcountry or The Wreck involve drives of 1.5 to 2.5 hours each way. Blue water grounds are typically 45 to 90 minutes out, often with trolling on the way.
What type(s) of fish will I catch?
Bonefish are the primary target, but the atoll also holds multiple triggerfish species, as well as Giant, Bluefin, Barred, and Golden Trevally, sweetlips, snapper, wrasse, ladyfish, and a few barracuda.
How many fish will I catch?
Expect variability. Most days provide numerous shots at Bonefish, a few chances at Triggerfish and maybe a shot at a GT. A great week for a skilled angler can yield over 100 bonefish; a tough week might produce two to six per day. A reasonable average is six to ten bonefish per day, plus a handful of smaller trevally.
Will I see other anglers?
Yes. There are several other lodges operating on the Island, but there is almost always room to spread out.
What are the guides like?
The guides are extremely skilled at angling and have excellent eyes. Led by Kiatanna Kairaoi, the guide team at Christmas Island Outfitters is widely regarded as the most experienced on the atoll. They are hand-picked professionals with exceptional fish-spotting ability, calm demeanors under pressure, and real skill as instructors. Most speak English well, while a few younger guides communicate with less fluency but remain clear and effective on the water. The people of Christmas Island are generally soft-spoken and kind. Following your guide's lead will always pay off, they know this fishery intimately and want nothing more than to get you on fish.
What are the physical demands?
The farther you are able to walk, the more water that will be accessible. Anglers that are able to walk a contiguous mile around their neighborhood, should do fine.
Are there any special skills required?
The ability to cast accurately up to 60 feet into the wind will significantly improve your success rate. But even a 40’ cast will typically result in a few fish per day. Anglers can also challenge themselves with Triggerfish and Trevally. Beyond that, comfort walking on uneven terrain for extended periods is helpful. It can be windy at times, so it is a good idea to practice casting in the wind with accuracy.
Does the lodge provide equipment?
No. Virtually everything you need for fishing or personal use should be brought with you.
What is your favorite setup for the trip?
A fast-action 9-foot 7- or 8-weight for bonefish, an 8- or 9-weight rod for Triggerfish and a 10- to 12-weight for Giant Trevally. A strong drag is essential for trevally. Floating, weight-forward lines are only what you need for all species.
What are the top flies?
Christmas Island Special, Gotcha, Bonefish Bitters, Flexo Crabs, Brush Flies (tan and black), Bonefish Clousers.
Our favorite fly for Christmas Island Bonefish is the Christmas Island Special. Orange and tan are tough to beat, but pearl and tan Gotchas and Crazy Charlies are also excellent. Larger rubber leg patterns (in muted or tan colors) like Mantis Shrimp can work well but are often outdone by the simpler and sparser patterns mentioned above.
For Triggerfish, various crab patterns in lighter colors are the most popular. Flexo Crabs are an excellent choice as are many of the most popular Permit crabs, just make sure to focus on versions with lighter weight eyes, as heavier patterns tend to spook fish and get hung-up in the coral. Don’t forget that Triggerfish will also often eat whichever fly has been working well for Bonefish too. Bluefin will respond to smaller baitfish patterns and in a pinch even a quickly retrieved Bonefish fly. Giant Trevally prefer brush flies and EP Minnows in black, tan, white, and sometimes brighter colors like orange, yellow, and red combos.
What are the options if water conditions become challenging?
Sometimes wind, rain, and clouds will conspire to make sight fishing impossible. There is still opportunity to blind cast and continue to catch fish. It is rare (but not impossible) for the conditions to be so poor that you’ll have to return to the lodge.
What is a typical day like?
Anglers typically wake up around 6:00 AM. Hot water and instant coffee will be available under the main dining “Maneaba” and breakfast is served around 6:30 AM. At 7:00 AM anglers will be picked up at the lodge by the guides and head out to the flats for a full day of fishing. Around 4:30 PM, guests return to the lodge and can relax, have a beer, take a shower, and enjoy some simple appetizers, before dinner, which is usually served around 6:30 PM.
What is the general vibe, atmosphere, and style of the lodge?
The lodge is very laid-back and casual. Anglers should think of the facility as a "fish camp" built for one purpose: a functional base camp to explore some of the most productive, beautiful, and remote flats found anywhere in the world.
Is there an on-site owner, manager, or other point-person at the lodge?
Sunset Horizon Lodge is owned by a church located nearby. The manager, Juliebwa, is on-site in the morning until 9:00 PM. If you need anything, or if there is a problem with your room, she is the person to communicate with. When in doubt, you can always talk with Binatia (Lisa) the lodge hostess and ‘fixer’ who is typically around in the mornings and evenings. She speaks good English and can also help with almost anything you need.
Where do we eat, and what are the meals like?
Breakfast and dinner are served under the Maneaba at the lodge. As far as meals go, it is important to remember that this is an island in the middle of the Pacific with no soil and very little water. They do not have a culture incorporating fine food. Prior to boats shipping in rice and ramen noodles, the fare was fish, coconut, and breadfruit. That said, there is no doubt that the cooks at Sunset Horizon are some of the best on the island and they work magic with what supplies they can get their hands on. We will not say that guests are going to experience great meals on their trip, but if one travels with very simple expectations, they may be pleasantly surprised. Breakfasts typically include eggs, bacon or sausage, and toast or pancakes. Staples at the dinner table are rice, fish, chicken, frozen vegetables, and breadfruit. The lunches remain very meager. Guests typically have the choice of tuna, ham and cheese, or peanut butter and jelly. Our advice is to bring plenty of energy bars, nuts, dried fruit, beef jerky, etc. to supplement the weak lunches.
What is the alcohol policy?
Alcohol and soda are not included. The lodge has beer, sodas, and extra bottles of water for sale, which will be added to your room bill and paid at the end of the week (prices are approximately $2.50/$5 per soda/beer). If you prefer wine or hard liquor, we encourage you to purchase items in Honolulu as liquor is limited on the island. We recommend visiting the duty-free store after clearing security in the Honolulu airport and carrying these items aboard the plane. Generally, ice for drinks is available sometimes, but don’t count on it at the lodge. Ice and mixers are sparse on the island in general.
Where do we stay, and what are the accommodations like?
Christmas Island Outfitters is a small operation taking a maximum of twelve anglers per week. The lodge is located just north of London on a beautiful section of beach. Accommodations consist of seven double occupancy guest rooms. Each room is configured to house two anglers and have a private bathroom. Rooms are very simple, relatively rustic but kept clean and feature ample space for your gear. Air conditioning is available in all the rooms. Your room will be cleaned and any laundry you’ve left in the basket will be taken care of every day during your stay. Each unit is equipped with screened windows, a small refrigerator, and a simple plastic table. There is nothing fancy or luxurious about Christmas Island. Accommodations are very simple and provide a clean, comfortable space to lay your head at night.
Private accommodations are available on a very limited basis and must be arranged in advance at an additional cost. Private guides can be arranged in advance for the week, or guests can arrange a private guide for some of their days on site.
Is there internet and/or cell service?
While on Christmas Island, many U.S. based cell phone providers will provide service, with international plans and rates applicable. Satellite Wi-Fi is available for $30 per week. It handles texts, emails, and WhatsApp reliably, but won't support streaming or heavy browsing. Signal is strongest in the dining area. During busy hours (the afternoons when everyone returns from fishing) the connection can be slow, but typically at least allows for texting.
Are there other activities?
This is a dedicated fly fishing destination. The island, the flats, and the fishing are the experience. This is not a location that a non-angler is likely to enjoy.
Are there any other expenses?
Currently the round-trip Fiji Air flight to Christmas Island, from Honolulu runs approximately $1,600 per person. Airfare is not included in your fishing package. Anglers will purchase a fishing license for the week at the airport upon arrival to Christmas Island for $350 AUD. We recommend having exact change on hand for this purchase. Alcohol, sodas, and additional waters will be tallied throughout the week and paid for on your last night. These items range from $2 - $5 each. Laundry service is provided daily, and prices are a few dollars per garment. Staff and guide gratuities are an additional expense as well.
Do I need a visa?
No. Guests must have a valid passport that expires no less than six months prior to the trip date.
Are there any health concerns, dangers, or annoyances?
We hear complaints each season about the presence of bugs in the rooms. Christmas Island is a coral atoll in the middle of the ocean and the only fresh water on the island sits in shallow lenses. These lenses are only 5ft to 10ft deep. Therefore, harsh pesticides are not allowed on the island. The staff cleans your room every day but totally keeping the bugs out of the rooms is next to impossible. If there are bugs in your room, just let the staff know and they will spray (they always have cans of Raid) your room while you are out fishing. This will typically keep them at bay for a few days. Having said that, this is not a particularly ‘buggy’ location compared to many other tropical fishing spots.
Although travel to Christmas Island is quite benign, should a medical emergency arise, getting off the island to receive medical attention is extremely difficult. Anglers are strongly advised to purchase medical evacuation coverage through Global Rescue.
We also recommend that guests be mindful about staying hydrated. Another good tip is to take one Pepto Bismol each day as a prophylactic to reduce the chance of stomach issues, which at times are common in this third-world environment. Only drink or brush your teeth with bottled water and try to keep the shower water out of your mouth as well.
While the breeze normally keeps them away, mosquitoes can be present in the evenings. We recommend bringing long pants and long-sleeved shirts for coverage as well as bug spray for use in the evenings.
Guests should always consult with the U.S. State Department and the Center for Disease Control websites for general travel information and guidelines regarding inoculations.
