Kendjam Lodge

Were the massive Amazon basin to have an Eden, it would be on the banks of the immaculate Iriri River. Home of the Kayapo people, the noble painted natives that inspired the script for Avatar, the Iriri, with its clear green waters, countless braids and rocky islands, is an other-worldly place that floats far above what most envision the jungle to be.

Here adventuresome anglers can interface with one of the most fortunate and unaffected native groups in the New World as they enjoy the finest light-tackle multi-species fishing experience available. From the comfort of a deluxe native hardwood cabin camp, groups of six anglers will explore the riches of the Iriri by boat and on foot sight casting to a host of exotic jungle game fish including a unique species of peacock bass, wolf fish, pacu and jaturana. Armed with little more than a 7 wt. rod, a floating line and popper, anglers can wet wade and sight fish a wide range of interesting water types in the midst of one of the most pristine and biologically diverse ecosystems on earth. For anglers, adventurers and lovers of the wildest and most remote reaches of our planet, this epic journey into the Amazon's most pristine jungle paradise is truly without equal.

The Kayapo’s miraculous emergence into the 21st century with their land, culture and largely subsistence-based lifestyle all still intact is one of indigenous culture’s greatest success stories. When European involvement in the Amazon took off in 1900, there were 4,000 Kayapo. By 1970 there were less than 1,400, due largely to measles and other introduced diseases. Today, however, the Kayapo are thriving with over 9,000 members and 45 villages spread across a road less, legally recognized territory half the size of the state of Washington. They are also indirectly famous, as their connectivity to their natural world and the fierceness with which they defend it, inspired the storyline of Avatar. Of Brazil’s 250 indigenous tribes, the Kayapo are considered the most prosperous and powerful. Of even greater significance is that their connection to their traditions and the natural world upon which they depend remains continuous and unbroken.

Of the 45 Kayapo villages, Kendjam may be the most unique. Established only in 1993, Kendjam was the result of a deliberate move by chief Pukatire and his followers to break away from an existing village/band in an effort to create a more traditional community, free of the influences of alcohol and the timber industry. The duty of chief is now collectively shared by the younger Budyou and Djyty. On a recent trip of ours however, Pukatire was there to observe and greet our plane as it unloaded near the shade tree on the red dirt airstrip. Neither he, nor any of the Kayapo, are particularly outgoing, but rather relaxed, observant and conversationally reserved with outsiders and one another. Pukatire was once quoted as saying, “we only need the white man for three things: eyeglasses, flip-flops and flashlights”. And while he feels strongly about preserving his people’s traditional lifestyles, he is now embracing a new sustainable model that he hopes will benefit his people without compromising the natural world upon which they depended.

While the Kendjam project remains a work in progress, their program will be based around anglers moving between beats in 25-30’ aluminum canoes propelled by long-tailed outboards. While these boats are slow, they are stable to cast from and well suited to the environment. For every two anglers, there will be a professional fly fishing guide and a Kayapo boatmen. The river is divided into a number of beats that anglers will rotate between. Virtually all the beats will have plenty of wade fishing and plenty of boat fishing, depending on what you prefer or the species you most want to target. For those keen on sight fishing, time spent on foot exploring coves and braids is particularly fruitful.

The 810-mile Iriri River is the 15th longest river in the Amazon and the 116th longest in the world. The Iriri originates near the Bolivian border and is a north-flowing tributary of the mighty Xingu, which in volume is the world’s 60th largest river, averaging more than 340,000 cfs. But unlike most of the Amazon’s 1,100 dark, winding, snake-like tributaries, the Iriri cuts a steeper, more direct course through the southern basin’s ancient, jungle-coated granite. Each epoch, the boulders here become softer, more artistically stacked, more pleasing to the eye. The beaches are coarse, clean, peach-colored decomposed granite and the water is a heavenly clear blue-green. Slowly motoring across long pools, you watch countless turtles dive meters into the deepening green before disappearing.

Each hour you motor downstream of Kendjam, the river becomes more intricate, astounding and full of life. The nearest settlement of any helpful size is 15 days down river during high water. The bottom line is this river is about as deep into a rich, untouched ecosystem as presently possible. There are no bridges or roads or even contrails, just the vast continuity of a robust and highly functioning natural world.

The Xingu basin (pronounced Shingu), of which the Iriri is part, is home to more than 450 fish species, 25 of which are endemic. The Iriri itself has quite a few species with at least 10-12 viable species that anglers can target with flies. Of those, there are five species really stand out, any of which alone, could carry an average fishing program elsewhere.

Xingu Peacock Bass (Cichla melaniae): This is a unique species of peacock bass endemic to the Xingu basin. These bass, which Brazilians generically refer to as tucunare, prefer fast-water environments where they often hold in soft shallows and eddies on the fringes of the current’s force. They average 3-6 pounds with the largest topping 12 pounds. These bass are strong, explode on poppers and provide incredible sport on a favorite 6 to 7-weight rod. Over the course of the week, an estimated 60% of your catch will be made up of these fly-friendly bruisers.

Wolf Fish (Hoplias lacerdae): If you can imagine a cross between a wicked toothy ling cod and an air-breathing coelacanth, you can imagine what the Brazilians call trairao, or wolf fish. Averaging 10-15 pounds on the Iriri, they lie like giant fossilized sculpin on the bottom of smaller, glassy, off-current pools waiting to ambush large prey like peacock bass. They are among the most bizarre, passive-aggressive, primitive fish ever pursued. They are hard to spook and at times hard to wake up. You often stand rather near them, slapping and slowly chugging poppers above them. They may take slowly or explosively but more often than not you lose them on a tarpon-like jump or because their brutal teeth break 30-pound wire. No worries. Once they settle down they will be more motivated than ever to crush the same fly! When it comes to offering anglers a second or a third chance, no game fish compares. For the surefooted, the Iriri offers miles of braided bedrock terrain perfect for sight fishing the fierce wolf fish and other jungle species.

Pacu-borracha (Tometes sp. Valenciennes): These curious, flat-bodied, algae-eating pacu add immeasurably to the Kendjam angling experience, due in part to the fast-water environments they inhabit. The Iriri has multiple areas where the river braids and drops steeply with falls, whitewater chutes, powerful runs and long broken riffles. These areas are best fished on foot and often entail exciting wet wading coupled with somewhat technical trout-like dead-drift presentations. Anglers are best served by a 6 to 7-weight rod with a floating line and wide range of green or olive flies tied to a wire leader. These fish will hold in incredibly fast water, even in whitewater, and can be spotted flashing as they tip sideways to feed. Best of all, these fish, which run from 2-4 pounds, fight like steelhead more than twice their weight, complete with strong runs and wild jumps.

Matrinxa (Brycon Amazonicus): Known also as jatuarana, these strong, spooky trout-like fish provide great sport on a 6 weight rod. These fish are very plentiful and often school near shoreline structure and shadows. They are the most wary of the jungle species and present a spring-creek-like challenge that serious trout fishermen will find most appealing. Also, matrinxa go on and off the bite, making them easy at times and near bulletproof at others. They are best fished with rubber-legged dries on long leaders and they jump wildly when hooked. While they can grow to over 10 pounds, most of them are in the 2-5 pound class.

Bicuda (Boulengerella maculata): Best described as freshwater barracuda, bicuda are fierce, incredibly fast predatory fish that may well be the wildest fighters of all the Kendjam species. They are not plentiful and often hold in the upper gut of larger pools. The largest specimens are near three feet long and are horribly hard to hook and land.

The Kendjam camp will operate from June through the end of August. It accommodates 8 anglers in deluxe double occupancy hardwood cabins built on large wooden decks overlooking a remote beach some 40 km downstream of the village of Kendjam. Tents feature comfortable bedding, ceiling fans, showers, toilets, a dining tent as well as a solar charging station for guests to use. Considering the location, these may be the best-appointed accommodations in a 700-mile radius. In addition, there is a simple camping-style spike camp 25 km down river that opens up several additional large beats of water. Anglers have the option of spending two nights at this camp.

Despite the relative comforts of the main camp, Kendjam remains a place for hearty adventure travelers. It entails a significant effort to reach the unspoiled riches of the Iriri, and once there, it will mandate a willingness to interface with the jungle in all its glory. While there will be flocks of parrots, three colors of macaws, tapirs, and capybara, there will also be jaguars, rapids, and at times guests will need to help push the boats up channels too skinny to navigate. Likewise, in the river there are countless freshwater stingrays, two species of piranha, lots of curious caimans, seven-foot-long electric eels and the occasional anaconda. Despite that, the Iriri has a bright, friendly, safe feel to it that is sublime and surreal; rife with colors, creatures and compelling native culture.

Day 1: Arrive in Manaus where you will be met by a member of the Kendjam team who will transfer you to your hotel.

Day 2: After breakfast (approximately 5:30 AM), you will be transferred to the local airport to meet your charter flight to the Kendjam Indian Community. Once on the ground, you will meet your guides and staff for the trip, as well as members of the Kayapo community. After the plane takes off, you will make your way down river to the lodge, which takes approximately 3 hours. It's a beautiful ride down and once you arrive to the lodge, you will get settled in and prepare for the upcoming days of fishing.

Day 3 - 8: Six days of guided fishing and exploring the Iriri river. Each group of two anglers will be accompanied by a professional fly fishing guide as well as a native guide.

Day 9: In the morning, guests will be transferred by boat to the Kendjam Indian Community landing strip to fly back to Manaus, weather permitting. You will stop in Novo Progresso to refuel before arriving in Manaus at approximately 3:30 PM. You will be met by a member of the Kendjam team who will transfer you to the airport for your return flight home.

2025 Rate: Per person based on double occupancy

• 8 night/6 day package: $7,190 plus $620 native fees

2026 Rate: Per person based on double occupancy

• 8 night/6 day package: $7,250 plus $700 native fees

Included: Accommodation and meals at Kendjam Lodge, arrival night lodging in Manaus, transfers in Manaus, charter flights and boat transfers to camp, guided fishing, fishing licenses

Not Included: Native Community Fee (cash required), round trip airfare, gratuities for camp staff and guides, meals in Manaus, departure tax, all tackle

Species: Peacock bass, wolf fish, pacu, matrinxa, bicuda, and more

Season: June to August

Capacity: Eight anglers

How do I get there? Guests fly into Manaus, Brazil and overnight before taking a three hour charter flight to the remote village of Kendjam. After meeting the villagers and their chiefs, guests will travel three hours downstream by motorized canoe to the remote safari camp.

When should I go? July through September.

Where do they fish? They fish multiple beats of the Iriri River. These beats are 40-60 KM downstream of the village and ultra pristine with lots of fish and varying water types. Boat fishing and wade fishing are both available.

What are the accommodations and meals like? Accommodations are in comfortable well-appointed hardwood lodge rooms.  They are built on large wooden platforms and have full bedding, ceiling fans, electricity, refrigerators, showers, flush toilets, chairs, tables and storage. Kendjam takes six guests per week. Meals will be prepared by a dedicated chef and will be hearty and tasty considering the remote location.

Describe the atmosphere and style of the lodge. This is a casual yet comfortable camp for adventure travelers. There will be far more employees than anglers, many of whom are Kayapo and they will have limited interaction with guests while the bilingual fly fishing guides will interface often with guests.

Is there internet and cell service? No, maybe internet in the near future. Make sure to ask.

How do they fish? Fishing will be done from the boats (aluminum boats) and while wet wading. There will be both sight fishing and blind casting opportunities with most sight fishing being done on foot. The wading is somewhat challenging but adds immeasurably to the overall experience. Bring your felt boots with you and if possible a walking staff.

 What fish will I catch? The primary species in order of abundance are: yellow peacock bass, pacu-borracha, wolf fish, matrinxa (know also as jatuarana), and bicuda. There are additional species as well.

How many fish will I catch? 5-25 a day depending on skill, conditions and species targeted.

Is there wade fishing? Yes and there is a lot for those who want it and are good on their feet. Good cleated wading boots help and you can wade aggressively as the water is warm, non threatening and you are wet wading.  Most guests take several deliberate swims a day to refresh.

How far are the fishing grounds from camp? Runs range from 10 minutes to 40 minutes depending on the beats. When and if you elect to head to the lower base camp, that run will be several hours. The trip from the main camp to the village (on transfer days is typically around three hours depending on water levels.

Does the lodge provide equipment? No but you will be able to purchase some flies on site.

What is your favorite rod for the trip? 7wt. with weight forward floating line.

Are there other activities? Yes, there is great birding and nature lovers who just like being out can really get a lot out this remarkable location as you will be in the heart of one of the largest tracts of uncut rainforest on earth.

What are the physical demands? The travel is fairly arduous and the wading is moderately difficult. Also when the water is low guests will need to get out of the canoes and help push and/or pull the canoes through shallow sections.

What are the guides like? There will be two types of guides. The Kayapo boatmen who are, for the most part, very reserved and either Brazilian or Argentine fly fishing guides. The fly fishing guides have the skills one would expect and will vary in terms of how outgoing they are.

Do the guides speak English? There are only a few Kayapo who speak any English, and most Kaypo speak very little, even to one another. The fly fishing guides will all have basic English skills and will be able to help anglers understand and approach the fisheries.

Are there special skills required? No, basic trout fishing skills are all that are needed to enjoy this trip.

Do I need a visa? Yes, starting January 10, 2024, a visa is required for Brazil.

Dangers and annoyances: Kendjam is a real adventure travel trip and a lot of time is spent moving about in slow boats due to the nature of the region and river. There are lots of freshwater stingrays that anglers must be mindful of. The river has rugged terrain and rapids, and props can get broken and plans delayed. There are lots of jungle creatures (including jaguars) and there are lots of river creatures (including electric eels) but neither represent an immediate threat to visiting anglers. Despite the wide array of creatures in the area, the Iriri river experience has a comfortable, friendly non-threatening feel to it.

Are there heath concerns? We recommend that all guests traveling to Brazil check the CDC’s website for the most current information pertaining to the region. Also note that a Yellow Fever vaccine is recommended, but not required. If you do have your Yellow Fever vaccine, please bring it with you on your trip.